Why Are My Plant’s Leaves Turning Yellow? Here’s What to Do
Q: I purchased my first houseplant a few months ago, and things were going great. But recently its leaves have started to turn yellow. What’s wrong with my plant; am I doing something wrong?
A: The good news is that, despite the color change, a plant that still has all of its leaves likely can be salvaged. Yellowing leaves are typically an early warning sign that something is wrong. This visual red (err, yellow?) flag is a sign that it’s time to inspect your plant a little more closely than usual.
The bad news is that yellow leaves can be a symptom of many plant problems, some not so serious, and some potentially fatal if ignored. Here are some common reasons that a plant’s leaves might start yellowing and how to tell these issues apart.
Related: 14 Symptoms of an Unhappy Houseplant (and How You Can Treat Them)
Compacted Roots
A plant’s roots are like the veins of the body. But instead of circulating blood, roots deliver nutrients and water that plants need to thrive. When roots aren’t in tip-top shape, a plant suffers. Problems with roots are impossible to see above the ground unless you know how to look for them.
Yellow leaves on a plant might be a sign to check for compacted roots. Gnarled and container-bound roots can’t deliver necessary sustenance to plants, which can turn leaves an unpleasant shade of yellow.
Key indicators: A root-bound plant will fail to thrive. Leaves might turn yellow or brown. An inspection of the roots will show that they have grown in a mat-like fashion.
Remedy: If possible, pull your plant out of the container and look at the roots directly. If they’re noticeably compacted, it’s probably time to repot.
I’ve had this happen with a pothos that I neglected for too long in a tiny pot. When I finally checked, the roots were circling the bottom like a tangled ball of yarn! Repotting into a slightly larger container with fresh soil made all the difference. If you’re unsure about the pot size, go just one size up—about 1-2 inches larger in diameter—to give the roots room to breathe without overwhelming the plant. Also, consider using a pot with good drainage and a mix of potting soil with perlite or sand to keep things loose. This small effort can prevent root compaction from choking your plant’s nutrient supply.
Too Much Moisture
Plants need water to survive. However, too much of it may lead to rot. When a plant starts to look unwell, most people react by watering. But sometimes, more water is not the answer. If plant roots are drowning in water, they can’t breathe or access nutrients.
Detecting whether a plant is getting too much water can be tricky, especially if a pot doesn’t have drainage holes or the ground’s soil makeup is unknown. Before watering, though, always check to see whether the soil is moist. Plug a finger an inch or more into the soil. Is it wet? Skip watering.
Key indicators: Aside from yellow leaves, overwatered plants might have roots that rise out of the soil in an attempt to avoid suffocation. Also, if there’s a nasty odor emanating from a plant, it might be a sign that the roots are rotting.
Remedy: Make sure to use well-draining soil for potted or garden plants. Avoid containers with no drainage holes, or add holes yourself. Additionally, when planting outdoors, don’t plant in spots where water tends to pool.
Overwatering is a classic rookie mistake—I’ve been there! Once, I drowned a peace lily because I thought it looked thirsty every other day. Turns out, it was sitting in soggy soil. A quick fix is to ensure your pots have drainage holes; I’ve even drilled a few myself with a simple power drill. For outdoor plants, raised beds can help if your yard tends to hold water. A study from the University of Illinois Extension notes that overwatering is a leading cause of houseplant death, so checking soil moisture with a finger test or a $10 moisture meter can save you a lot of grief.
Related: 14 Symptoms of an Unhappy Houseplant (and How You Can Treat Them)
Too Little Moisture
Just to make it interesting, too little moisture also can cause leaves to turn yellow. If you haven’t watered in a long while and your plant’s leaves are yellowing, it’s likely because they need water. Generally, however, plants are better at handling a lack of water than an abundance of it.
Key indicators: Yellow leaves, parched soil, and lack of growth. Leaves might also feel dry and brittle to the touch and look droopy.
Remedy: Good old H2O will fix the problem. Prevent it in the future with consistent watering; add a layer of mulch around outdoor plants in dry areas.
Underwatering sneaks up on you, especially with plants like succulents that seem low-maintenance but still need a drink now and then. I’ve noticed my spider plant’s leaves get crispy when I forget to water for weeks. A good rule of thumb is to water when the top inch of soil feels dry, but don’t just dump water and run—let it soak in slowly. For outdoor plants, a 1-2 inch layer of organic mulch like bark chips can cut down on evaporation, keeping soil moist longer. This is especially handy in arid climates where water retention is a constant battle.
Lack of Nutrients
A lack of nutrients can cause problems when damaged or compacted roots cannot deliver food to a plant. A plant might be unable to access nutrients for other reasons, including pH imbalance. When the soil’s pH is off, it can hamper nutrient absorption, meaning a plant can’t access nutrients present in the soil. Other times, nutrients might be completely missing from the soil.
Key indicators: Specific deficiencies produce different symptoms. Nitrogen deficiency, for example, might cause leaves to turn completely yellow. Potassium deficiency, however, causes the edges of leaves to yellow.
Remedy: If the problem is pH-related, adding fertilizer might not work. If the soil is devoid of one or more specific nutrients, fertilizer is the answer. A soil test is the only way to know the root cause of the problem and whether you need fertilizer.
Nutrient issues can feel like a mystery, but they’re often tied to soil health. I learned this the hard way when my monstera started looking pale and yellow despite regular watering. A $15 soil test kit revealed my soil was low in nitrogen, which is super common for potted plants that deplete their soil over time. If you’re not ready to test, a balanced liquid fertilizer (like a 10-10-10) diluted to half strength can help, but don’t overdo it. Soil pH matters too—most houseplants like a slightly acidic range (6.0-6.5). If you suspect pH is off, a local garden center can test your soil for a small fee and recommend amendments like lime or sulfur.
Related: The Best Garden Fertilizers According to Our Research
Overfeeding
Fertilizer helps plants grow, so more of it must produce even bigger, more beautiful plants, right? Unfortunately, that’s not how it works. Too much fertilizer can not only stunt growth. It can also harm the environment and disrupt the delicate underground ecosystem. Additionally, too much fertilizer can yellow leaves and is likely to prevent blooms and fruits from forming.
Key indicators: Leaves might yellow and wilt. Other symptoms include root rot, stunted growth, leaf drop, or browning of leaf tips. There may also be a visible crust of fertilizer on the surface of the soil.
Remedy: Remove the layer of fertilizer visible on the topsoil. Remove any dead leaves or plant matter. Water deeply and wait at least a month before fertilizing or get the soil tested to ensure that you don’t make the same mistake again.
I once got overzealous with fertilizer on a fiddle leaf fig, thinking it’d grow faster. Big mistake—crusty soil and droopy, yellow leaves followed. Flushing the soil with water helped, but I had to be patient. If you see that telltale fertilizer crust, scoop it off gently with a spoon to avoid root damage. A soil flush (running water through the pot for a few minutes) can wash out excess salts, but make sure your pot drains well. Going forward, stick to fertilizing every 4-6 weeks during the growing season, and always follow the package instructions to avoid burning your plant.
Not Enough Light
Plants that don’t get enough light quickly turn leggy and sickly looking. Without enough light, plants can’t properly photosynthesize. Yellow leaves due to lack of light is a common problem with houseplants because people often grossly underestimate the amount of light a plant is getting.
Key indicators: Leaf yellowing, leaf drop, and a leggy appearance.
Remedy: The fix for lack of light is easier said than done. Placing your plant in a sunnier area is the best way to rectify the problem. However, not everyone has an ultra-sunny windowsill available. If there’s not enough natural sunlight available, make some with the help of a grow light (available on Amazon).
Light is a game-changer for houseplants. My snake plant was barely surviving in a dim corner until I moved it near a south-facing window—suddenly, it perked up! If you’re stuck with low light, a grow light can be a lifesaver. I picked up a small LED grow light for about $20, and it’s worked wonders for my calathea. Aim for 12-16 hours of light daily for most houseplants, but check your plant’s specific needs. For example, low-light plants like pothos can handle less, while succulents crave brighter conditions. Rotate your plant every few weeks to ensure even light exposure.
Pest Infestation
Eeek! No gardener wants to spot or deal with a pest infestation, but infestations do happen. Plant vampires like aphids, mites, mealybugs, and thrips are common houseplant pests. When these insects feed on foliage and the like, plants become stressed, and leaves can turn yellow. Some pests even damage roots, which can interrupt nutrient and water absorption.
Key indicators: Visible signs of pests might not be evident at first glance. Check the underside of leaves and look for physical damage that might indicate insect activity.
Remedy: Some insects, like mites, are easy to wash off with an intense burst of water. Others are a little trickier to get rid of. Neem oil is a fairly effective remedy for most houseplant pests. Generally, prevention is the best strategy. Always inspect store-bought plants before bringing them home or transplanting them to the garden.
Pests are the worst! I once found mealybugs on a new plant I brought home—tiny white fuzzballs hiding under the leaves. A quick spray with diluted neem oil (about $8 for a bottle) every few days cleared them up. For stubborn pests like aphids, I’ve also tried a mix of water and a drop of dish soap in a spray bottle. Be thorough—check every leaf, especially the undersides. To prevent infestations, quarantine new plants for a couple of weeks before mixing them with your others. It’s a small hassle that can save your whole plant collection from a pest takeover.
It’s Too Cold
Some plants are particularly susceptible to changes in temperature. Tropical plants, like citrus trees, for instance, don’t do well in drafty locations. Placing a temperature-sensitive plant near a door or vent can cause yellowing and leaf drop due to stress, as can outdoor temps that drop too low.
Although windowsills sometimes provide the best source of light for plants, they can also be terrible in terms of regulating temperature, especially if the windows are old and poorly insulated.
Key indicators: Yellowing and leaf drop.
Remedy: Find a warmer, less drafty location for your precious houseplant or a new spot in the garden for an outdoor one.
Temperature swings can really stress out plants. My lemon tree dropped half its leaves when I left it near a drafty window last winter. Most tropical houseplants prefer temps between 65-75°F, so keep them away from cold drafts or hot radiators. If your windows are old, like mine, try moving plants a few feet back or use a sheer curtain to buffer the chill. For outdoor plants, check your USDA hardiness zone to ensure they can handle local winters—moving potted plants indoors during cold snaps can make a big difference.
Disease
Many diseases also can cause plant leaves to turn yellow. Common sources of plant diseases are contaminated soil or pests. Fungal and bacterial plant infections can also hang around on unsanitized garden tools or store-bought plants. Diseases that might produce yellowed leaves include leaf spot, black spot, rust, and mosaic virus.
Key indicators: Depends on the disease. A diseased plant will have an overall unhealthy appearance.
Remedy: The fix will depend on the disease. Many plant diseases are incurable and might spread to nearby healthy plants. To avoid getting other plants sick, dispose of diseased plant material ASAP. If necessary, get help from a trusted source like your local extension office to address plant diseases.
Plant diseases are tricky and can feel like a death sentence. I lost a rose bush to black spot once because I ignored the early yellowing leaves with dark spots. If you spot signs like unusual spotting or wilting, act fast. Remove affected leaves with clean, sanitized scissors to prevent spreading. For fungal issues, a homemade spray of baking soda (1 tsp per quart of water) can help in mild cases, but for serious diseases like mosaic virus, you might need to toss the plant to protect others. Your local extension office is a goldmine for free advice—mine helped me identify a fungal issue last year for no cost at all.
Related: 7 Signs Your Tree is Dying—and How to Save It
Our Best Advice for Beginner Gardeners
We’ll help you set up your first garden—whether that’s a few pots on your patio, a raised bed, or an in-ground plot out back—and select the right plants for your soil and region.
GET STARTED
