Eliminate Insect Infestations
Investigate and remove any of the following insects from outdoor structures to reduce the likelihood of woodpecker damage from birds drilling for food on your property.
Carpenter ants commonly burrow into moist, decaying, or dead areas of trees or exterior siding and roofing on wooden houses to create nests. If you have a carpenter ant infestation, locate the entrance to the ant nest—typically a small hole or series of holes in trees or siding accompanied by nearby ant trails or sawdust piles. Fill the nest entrance with a dust insecticide containing carbaryl or pyrethroids to kill the nest along with the egg-laying queen. If you can’t locate the nest entrance, or if ants are seen on roof shingles or other areas where it is difficult to locate the nest entrance, set bait stations near the ant trail, which contain poison that ants will carry back to their nest.
Carpenter bees bore small holes in moist or rotting wood that then turn at a 90-degree angle into lengthy corridors with chambers where they deposit eggs. If you have a carpenter bee infestation, you’re most likely to spot their one to two-inch-deep burrowing holes on the underside of siding, eaves, or soffits of a wooden house. Once you locate a hole, eliminate the infestation by hanging a carpenter bee trap directly over the hole or filling it (along with any accessible chambers of the burrowed corridor) with residual dust insecticide, preferably one with a curved applicator to easily reach the chambers.
Termites can be spotted via discarded wings, termite droppings, hollow spots in the woodwork or foundation (which can be found out by tapping the area with a screwdriver), nests in dry wood, or subterranean mud tunnels. If you suspect a termite infestation, call in a certified pest professional to eliminate it through soil treatments like Termidor, bait and monitoring systems, or physical termite barriers.
I’ve dealt with carpenter ants before, and let me tell you, finding those tiny sawdust piles under my deck was a dead giveaway. What I didn’t know at first was that woodpeckers were hammering away because the ants were already there, munching through the wood. To add some perspective, studies suggest carpenter ants cause millions in structural damage annually in the U.S., often attracting woodpeckers to homes. If you’re tackling ants or bees, check your wood for moisture issues first—wet or rotting wood is like a buffet for these pests. For carpenter bees, I’ve found that sealing entry points with steel wool after applying insecticide keeps them from sneaking back in. Termites are trickier; a pro I talked to once mentioned that soil treatments can cost anywhere from $500 to $2,000 depending on the property size, but they’re worth it to stop the cycle of damage. Always wear protective gear when handling insecticides, and don’t skip reading the label—it’s easy to mess up the application if you’re not careful.
Repair the Damage
Plugging up holes left by woodpeckers in the following outdoor structures can prevent further woodpecker damage to your property.
Trees with woodpecker damage primarily confined to areas of dead wood are often salvageable. Start by spraying a solution of one to two teaspoons of liquid dish soap and one cup of warm water into tree holes to flush out pathogens from the woodpecker’s beak, then rinse the holes out with water from a garden hose. You can dry small tree holes in open air, but larger holes should temporarily be nailed shut with a window screen or piece of hardware cloth to prevent additional woodpeckers from doing more damage to the area. Tape any dislodged living bark back to its original position on the tree with duct tape. Remove the tape and window screen or hardware cloth once the tree has healed completely.
Note: More severe conditions like girdling, a ring of woodpecker damage around the full circumference of the trunk, may require the help of an arborist to prevent tree death.
Siding holes can be filled with epoxy putty, a two-part adhesive of epoxy resin and hardening putty. On a warm day, mix the two materials with a putty knife, then spread the mix over holes in the siding until the opening is completely covered. Use the putty knife to scrape away the excess, then air-dry and sand the putty before painting the patched area to match the rest of your siding.
Roof shingles with cracks or holes can be filled with wood putty, then painted to match the rest of the shingles as a stopgap measure to prevent further shingle damage. However, replacing the damaged shingles or even the roof itself (if the woodpecker damage is extensive enough) is generally more effective than patching up a structurally compromised shingle. New shingles are free from the visual traces of former pecking sites that make woodpeckers more likely to return.
When I patched up some siding holes last summer, I learned the hard way that epoxy putty sets fast—mix only what you need or you’ll end up with a sticky mess. For trees, the dish soap trick works well, but I’d add that checking the tree’s overall health is key. A local arborist told me that trees with over 25% bark damage might struggle to recover, so keep an eye on those wounds. For shingles, I’ve seen folks spend about $10-$20 on a tube of wood putty for small fixes, but if you’re replacing shingles, expect to pay $100-$300 for materials and labor for a small section, based on what roofing buddies have shared. Also, sanding the putty smooth before painting makes a huge difference in blending the repair—don’t skip that step. If your roof damage is widespread, get a pro to assess it; patching too many shingles can look patchy and scream “woodpecker target” to those birds.
Prevent Future Attacks
A variety of woodpecker deterrents are available to keep woodpeckers away from outdoor structures after you have repaired them. For starters, protect trees by mounting bird-repellent tape to tree trunks or hanging old mirrors from limbs: Their shiny, reflective surface will scare off nearby woodpeckers. You can also opt to hang DIY wind chimes or plastic owls or hawks from tree limbs or siding or eaves of the home to frighten encroaching woodpeckers. Finally, if you have a dead tree in the yard, consider hanging a suet feeder (a wire cage with high-calorie bird food) from it to lure the birds to the dead wood and thus preserve living trees.
I’ve tried the reflective tape trick, and it’s surprising how well it works—those flashes of light really spook woodpeckers. A neighbor of mine swears by plastic owls, but you’ve got to move them around every few days or the birds catch on. Fun fact: research shows woodpeckers are less likely to peck where they feel exposed, so open, reflective surfaces are your friend. If you’re on a budget, old CDs hung from strings can mimic the reflective tape effect for pennies. Suet feeders are great, but I’d suggest placing them at least 20 feet from living trees to avoid drawing woodpeckers too close. Also, check local regulations—some areas have rules about bird feeders due to wildlife concerns. A quick chat with a local extension service can give you tailored tips for your region.
