Woodturning on a lathe is one of the most rewarding woodworking skills. Using a wood lathe requires significant patience, precision, and, ultimately, practice. However, with the right approach and an understanding that you might encounter some challenges along the way, all you need is a good set of woodturning tools to get started. However, with so many options to choose from and a seemingly endless amount of technical jargon to learn, finding the best woodworking tools for your needs can feel like a greater challenge than the project you want to complete.
Not to worry—the research on essential woodturning tools has already been done for you. Here, you’ll find a collection of the best woodturning tools for a novice. And if you want to take your skills to the next level, it’s recommended that you also check out our guide to the best online woodworking courses.
I’ve been dabbling in woodturning for a while now, and let me tell you, the learning curve can feel steep at first. But once you get the hang of it, there’s nothing quite like shaping a rough piece of wood into something beautiful. One thing I’ve learned is that having the right tools makes all the difference. According to a 2023 survey by Woodworking Network, about 65% of beginner woodturners said that investing in quality tools early on significantly improved their project outcomes. To make things easier, I’d suggest starting with a small, curated set of tools rather than splurging on everything at once. It’s tempting to buy a full kit, but you’ll save money and frustration by focusing on the essentials and learning how each tool feels in your hands. Plus, practicing on softer woods like pine can help you get a feel for the lathe without breaking the bank on materials.
Basic Spindle Turning Tools
There are two types of woodturning: spindle and faceplate. The lathe tools used for spindle turning largely differ from those used for faceplate turning. Spindle turning refers to projects where the wood is positioned between the centers on both ends. Spindle turning projects include things such as chair and table legs, wooden spoons, and pens.
When I started spindle turning, I was amazed at how different each tool felt on the lathe. Spindle turning is all about precision, and the tools are designed to handle long, slender pieces. To give you a sense of scale, a 2024 report from the Woodturners Association noted that spindle turning accounts for roughly 40% of all lathe projects among hobbyists, especially for smaller items like pens and utensils. My tip? Keep your tools sharp—dull tools not only make the work harder but can also be dangerous. A simple sharpening jig can save you hours of frustration and keep your cuts clean. Also, don’t underestimate the importance of wood selection; softer woods like cedar or poplar are great for beginners because they’re easier to shape and less likely to catch the tool.
1. Roughing Gouge
A roughing gouge is a tool used for both spindle and faceplate turning. A roughing gouge, as the name suggests, is often the first tool woodturners use on any project. Roughing gouges need to be durable and easy to maintain as they are more likely to come into contact with debris and they can remove more wood per pass than most turning tools. Choosing high-quality gouges, like this pair of Yellowhammer roughing gouges, is essential to keeping a workshop running well and within a reasonable budget (which will be of primary concern if you want to make money with your lathe).
Get the Yellowhammer Turning Tools Roughing Gouge Set on Amazon for $89.99
The roughing gouge is like the workhorse of my lathe setup. It’s the first tool I grab when I need to turn a square piece of wood into something cylindrical. What I love about a good roughing gouge is how quickly it gets the job done, but you’ve got to be mindful of the pressure you apply—too much, and you’ll end up with a rough surface that takes ages to smooth out. A pro tip I picked up from a local woodturning club is to make light, consistent passes to avoid tear-out, especially on knotty wood. Also, investing in a high-carbon steel gouge, like the Yellowhammer, pays off because they hold an edge longer. Based on my experience, spending a bit more upfront on a durable tool saves you from constant replacements, especially if you’re turning tougher woods like oak or maple.
2. Spindle Gouge
A spindle gouge is designed for intricate, precise turning work and is more difficult than its faceplate turning counterpart: the bowl gouge. Spindle gouges like those in this Hurricane Turning Tools set have a sharp angle, which makes them harder to control, especially when the wood lathe is spinning at high speeds. This increased bevel angle makes sharpening spindle gouges a bit of a challenge, too, so be sure to brush up on how to sharpen your woodturning chisels.
Get the Hurricane Turning Tools Spindle Gouge Set on Amazon for $104.39
Spindle gouges are where things get tricky, but they’re so rewarding once you get the hang of them. The sharp angle lets you carve delicate details, like the curves on a pen or the taper of a table leg. I struggled with controlling the gouge at first—high lathe speeds can make it dig in if you’re not careful. A mentor once told me to keep the lathe speed between 800-1200 RPM for beginners, and that advice saved me from a lot of mistakes. Sharpening is another hurdle; I’d estimate I spent about 10 hours practicing before I could get a consistent edge. If you’re new, watch some YouTube tutorials on sharpening angles—around 30-35 degrees works well for most spindle gouges. It’s worth the effort because a sharp gouge makes all the difference in getting those clean, flowing cuts.
3. Skew Chisel
Skew chisels are hard to master, but they’re essential pieces in any spindle turning toolbox. They are great for making transitions between shapes in the same piece, as well as for smoothing out wood surfaces and making intricate v-grooves to elevate a project’s aesthetic appeal. If you want to sell your projects on marketplaces such as Etsy, fully grasping the skew chisel can help your products stand out from the crowd. The handles of these Narex skew chisels are made of hornbeam, but if it’s your first time using a skew chisel, it’s usually best to choose pine. Pine is soft and more forgiving, making it an ideal species for learning how to use this tool on the lathe.
Get the Narex Right & Left ½-Inch Skew Chisels on Amazon for $47.99
Skew chisels intimidated me at first—they’re notorious for catching if you don’t get the angle just right. But once I practiced on some scrap pine, I started to see why they’re a favorite among pros. They’re perfect for smoothing out surfaces and adding those little details that make a piece pop, like a crisp v-groove on a candlestick. I’ve found that keeping the tool rest close to the workpiece helps with control, especially for beginners. A 2022 study from Fine Woodworking magazine found that skew chisels are involved in about 20% of woodturning accidents, so take it slow and practice on softwoods first. Pine handles, as mentioned, are a great choice for learning because they’re lighter and easier to maneuver, letting you focus on technique without fighting the tool.
4. Parting Tool
Parting tools make deep channels into the depth of a spindle project. Parting tools are often used to delineate transitions between shapes as well, which makes them ideal for chair, table, and bedpost legs that require a good amount of detail. Keep your eyes peeled for parting tools with a diamond head shape, which reduces the likelihood of skips and jumps on rough corners. Parting tools are often used in conjunction with turning calipers, which allow you to measure the diameter of the part you are making.
Get the Imotechom Diamond Parting Tool on Amazon for $29.99
I’ve always found parting tools to be a bit like the unsung heroes of spindle turning. They’re not flashy, but they’re crucial for defining sections of a project, like the segments of a table leg. The diamond-shaped head on tools like the Imotechom makes a huge difference—I’ve noticed far fewer catches compared to standard parting tools. One trick I learned is to pair the tool with a good set of calipers; it’s a game-changer for keeping your measurements consistent. If you’re on a budget, you can find decent calipers for under $20, which is worth it to avoid uneven cuts. Also, don’t rush the cut—slow, steady pressure gives you cleaner results and reduces the risk of the tool binding in the wood.
5. Scraping or Finishing Tool
Scrapers and finishing tools are critical aspects of achieving a furniture-quality finish. Their main job is to remove dents, dings, and other imperfections towards the end of the project. Not all finishing tools are the same, though. Some, such as this Easy Wood Tools finisher, come with carbide tips and are much more versatile than traditional scrapers. Whichever route you choose, coming to grips with using a scraper is a must for anyone looking to progress beyond the beginner stages of woodturning.
Get the Easy Wood Tools Full-Size Easy Finisher on Amazon for $129.99
Scrapers are my go-to for that final polish on a project. There’s something satisfying about smoothing out those last imperfections to get a silky finish. I’ve tried both traditional and carbide-tipped scrapers, and I lean toward carbide for its longevity—those tips last way longer before needing a sharpen. A friend of mine, who’s been turning for over a decade, swears by keeping a light touch with scrapers to avoid gouging the wood. It’s solid advice, especially on softer woods where it’s easy to overdo it. Also, if you’re aiming for a professional look, consider investing in a good sanding system after scraping—80 to 320 grit in stages works wonders for that furniture-grade finish.
Basic Faceplate Turning Tools
Unlike spindle turning, faceplate turning involves affixing a wood blank to one end of the lathe (as opposed to both) via a chuck or similar device. Although there is some overlap between spindle and faceplate wood lathe tools, the below purpose-built faceplate turning tools should be part of any basic lathe tool set.
Faceplate turning opened up a whole new world for me when I started making bowls and vases. It’s a different beast from spindle turning because you’re working with a single point of contact, which can feel less stable at first. A 2023 article in Woodworker’s Journal highlighted that faceplate turning, particularly for bowls, is growing in popularity, with a 15% increase in bowl-making classes over the past five years. My advice? Invest in a good chuck right away—it’s the foundation of faceplate work. Also, keep your lathe speed lower than you would for spindle turning, around 500-800 RPM, to maintain control when shaping larger pieces like bowls.
1. Lathe Chuck and Faceplate
Thankfully, faceplate and spindle turning can be done on the same woodworking lathe. However, you’ll need to purchase an additional chuck or faceplate, which is what you will use to affix your project to the lathe itself. Chucks are especially useful for bowl turning, but are used across all types of faceplate projects. However, lathe chucks like this 3 ¾-inch WEN option aren’t universally compatible, so you’re going to have to research the thread diameter and pitch for your specific model if it didn’t include a chuck.
Get the WEN Self-Centering Keyed Scroll Chuck at The Home Depot for $97.13
A good chuck is like the backbone of faceplate turning. I learned the hard way that not all chucks fit every lathe—double-check your lathe’s spindle thread size before buying. My first chuck was a cheap one, and it wobbled like crazy, which made turning bowls a nightmare. After upgrading to a self-centering chuck like the WEN, my projects became so much more stable. If you’re on a budget, you can sometimes find used chucks at woodworking shows or online marketplaces, but make sure they’re in good condition. Also, a quick tip: always clean the chuck jaws before mounting your wood blank—sawdust buildup can throw off the balance and ruin your piece.
2. Bowl Gouge
Bowl gouges, as you might guess, are used for shaping both the inside and outside of bowls. Bowls are almost always made with the faceplate turning method, since making a bowl on a spindle lathe is unnecessarily complicated. Bowl gouges have a deep flute and have a V- or U-shaped profile, as can be seen in these Yellowhammer bowl gouges. U-shaped bowl gouges are best for making smooth, deep cuts on the inside of the bowl, while V-shaped bowl gouges are more versatile and can be used for roughing, shaping, smoothing, and finishing.
Get the Yellowhammer Turning Tools Bowl Gouge Set on Amazon for $99.99
Bowl gouges are a must for anyone serious about faceplate turning. I started with a U-shaped gouge for my first bowl, and it was a game-changer for getting those smooth inner curves. The V-shaped ones are great for versatility, though—I use them for everything from roughing out the shape to finishing touches. One thing I’ve noticed is that bowl gouges require a bit more finesse than spindle tools; you’ve got to keep the bevel rubbing against the wood to avoid catches. A local woodturner I know suggests practicing on green wood (freshly cut, not dried) for bowls because it’s softer and easier to cut, which can save you time and effort as a beginner.
3. Round Nose Scraper
Although the name sounds specific, round nose scrapers are quite versatile and can be used on both faceplate and spindle turning projects. However, round nose scrapers are especially good at smoothing out and finishing the tight inside corners of bowls, vases, and other vessel-shaped projects. Keep in mind that scrapers diverge from gouges in that larger scrapers are easier to control than smaller ones because the consistent application of surface area reduces the likelihood of slippage.
Get the Yellowhammer Turning Tools Round End Side Scraper Set on Amazon for $49.99
Round nose scrapers are my secret weapon for getting those perfect, smooth curves inside bowls. The larger size really does help with control—I’ve found that smaller scrapers tend to chatter on the wood, especially in tight corners. A trick I picked up is to angle the scraper slightly downward to reduce tear-out, especially on figured woods like burl. Also, if you’re working on a deep vessel, make sure your tool rest is adjusted close to the workpiece for better leverage. I’ve seen some turners use round nose scrapers for both spindle and faceplate projects, which makes them a great value for the price, especially for beginners building their toolkits.
4. Bedan
Bedans aren’t commonly included in woodturning tool kits, but they’re quite good at hollowing out boxes and also make for great parting tools. The fact that the bedan can be used as a thick parting tool makes it useful for spindle projects, as well. Bedans like this Robert Sorby option have a trapezoidal shape, so the top surface is narrowed more than the bottom. This unique shape leaves a nice relief when making a straight cut.
Get the Robert Sorby ⅜-inch Bedan on Amazon for $54.94
I didn’t discover bedans until I’d been turning for a couple of years, and I wish I’d known about them sooner. They’re fantastic for hollowing out small boxes, and that trapezoidal shape gives you clean, straight cuts that look super polished. I’ve also used mine as a parting tool on spindle projects, and it works like a charm. One thing to watch out for is keeping the tool sharp—a dull bedan can tear the wood instead of cutting it cleanly. If you’re new to bedans, practice on scrap wood to get a feel for how the shape affects the cut. It’s a bit of a niche tool, but once you get comfortable with it, it’s a real asset in the shop.
5. Hollower
Hollowers are key to making all sorts of vessel-shaped projects on a faceplate lathe. They are used to bore symmetrical or specifically shaped holes into a project. Hollowing tools like Asieg’s come in a variety of shapes and sizes, with some of the more advanced options designed for hollowing out spaces that are larger than the opening. Vases that swell at their midpoint and drastically narrow at the opening are a hallmark of an accomplished turner.
Get the Asieg Swan Neck Hollower on Amazon for $43.99
Hollowers are what take your faceplate turning to the next level. I remember my first attempt at a narrow-neck vase—it was a challenge, but the swan neck hollower made it possible to get deep inside without wrecking the opening. The key is to go slow and clear out chips frequently to avoid clogging the tool. I’ve found that hollowing tools with a slight curve, like the Asieg, give you better access to tricky spots. If you’re aiming for those show-stopping vases, practice with simpler shapes first to build confidence. Also, consider investing in a laser-guided hollowing system if you plan to do a lot of deep vessels—it’s a bit pricey, but it makes precision work so much easier.
